The Byzantine Church in Alanya Castle: A Temple That Survived the Centuries Without Becoming a Mosque

At the highest point of the fortress in the Turkish city of Alanya stands the Byzantine church of İç Kale Bizans Kilisesi — one of the most fascinating architectural monuments in the region. Researchers believe the current building dates back to the late 12th century and is notable for its large central dome, two half-domes, entrances on the north and south sides, a spacious apse, and vaulted passages to the east and west. Fragments of the original frescoes have survived inside to this day, including depictions of the four evangelists set against architectural motifs.

The church was built in the Byzantine style following a trefoil, or triconch, plan. However, the current structure stands on the site of an earlier three-nave basilica dating from the turn of the 5th–6th centuries, of which only the foundation remains. That first church was destroyed no later than the 10th century, and a cemetery later appeared on the site. The current building was constructed in the late 12th century and has officially held protected cultural monument status since 1999.

What the Fortress Hides and How Much It Costs to Get In

The church stands within the Inner Castle of Alanya Fortress, so only those willing to pay 12 euros for entry to this part of the complex, located on the peninsula, can see it.

The building is oriented east to west and stands in the southeastern part of the inner citadel — between the palace and the vaulted barracks, west of the front courtyard with the main gate. Over the years, the church has been known by different names: the Church of St. George, the Church of the Annunciation (Prodromos), or the Church of St. John the Baptist.

Two Building Periods and Unique Frescoes

The building's history spans two construction periods and three stages of additions or major repairs. The surviving apse — semicircular both inside and out — is a reminder of the original three-nave basilica. It appears the nave was divided into three sections by two rows of columns, and the apse contains a single-tiered synthronon, a seating area for clergy.

During the second construction phase, a triconch-type building was erected, incorporating the remains of the eastern walls, primarily the apse. The central section beneath the dome is supported by pendentives resting on two concrete supports (it is thought that stone columns originally stood in their place). The main western entrance is crowned by a semicircular arch with a trefoil design and a triangular pediment decorated with a toothed ornament. On either side of the door are symmetrical rectangular niches with pointed arches, adorned with painted colored stripes and carved chrysanthemum-shaped motifs — similar patterns also appear in the windows of the north and south façades.

Inside, fragments of fresco paintings depicting New Testament scenes have survived on the dome's pendentives, the southern half-dome, the walls of the conch, and the wall of the southern pastophorium. The four evangelists are recognizable in the images (Mark appears in the northwest pendentive), along with a scene of the keys to the heavenly kingdom being handed to the Apostle Peter, and episodes from the life of Jesus — from the Nativity to the Crucifixion.

Interestingly, based on historical events in Alanya, the construction of the triconch church is sometimes dated to the early 11th century. However, experts in building techniques lean toward the late 12th century, while the style of the wall paintings points to as late as the early 13th century.

Repairs Through the Ages

The first stage of restoration took place shortly after 1225, when an annex was added on the southwestern side of the church. The remaining changes were far more recent: in 1922, a wooden house was built on the site, as evidenced by beam fittings on the outside of the apse and the walls of the southern annex, and between 1940 and 1960, two concrete supports were added inside to reinforce the dome due to the lack of eastern buttresses.

The church in the Inner Castle is significant above all because it has survived in its original form and was never converted into a mosque. Even the interior wall paintings were neither painted over nor scraped off. This is explained less by Seljuk religious tolerance than by the fact that Mahperi Huand Hatun, wife of Sultan Alaeddin Kayqubad I, was a Christian — as were some of the statesmen who worked in the region. It appears the church remained in use even during the Ottoman period.

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Source: turistika.cz